FrozenDreamer

So we got up this morning and came to the local cafe to eat breakfast and blog on our websites… after all, it’s easier than writing postcards to everyone. It was quite relaxing anyhoo, and we got everything up to date in about an hour.

We left the Cafe (called Cup-A-Joe) and headed for the F-Market line, where we caught the trolley out to The Castro area of the city. This is THE gay area of San Francisco, and the site of Harvey Milk’s legacy brough to life. I’ll add a link into the Wikipedia for Harvey, so you can find out why he’s so important.

After arriving at the Castro (and trying to shake the smell of dirty bodies from out clothes), we browsed the many gay-shops and had a lovely meal with wine out on the street pavement. It was another fabulous day weatherwise… so we were making the most of it.
I tried to locate the ‘Names Project’, which is a memorial to all the gay people killed in the concentration camps during WW2, and after about a half-hour searching, located it in the smallest ‘park’ I have ever seen… barely big enough to swing a poodle (of which there were a few in The Castro). Basically, a lovely memorial, shyte location though.

The Castro is a lovely neighbourhood. Loas of friendly people… with the occational homeless person (a given in the whole of SF really). Loas of retail therapy available, nice pubs and restaurants. Basically, a quiter version of Soho… ut bigger and MUCH more friendly. If you speak to someone on the street, they’re not likely to poke you in the eye, spray mace in the remaining hole and run screaming for the police… like they do in Soho. However, I’m sure you could find an establishment somewhere in SF that would cater for this if you wanted it. *shudder*.

We left The Castro and headed for Pier 39 where we wanted to say hello to the FARTIES (Sea Lions) and have a relaxing drinky in The Cannery. We did the tour of the Pier and headed for the Cannery where I managed to find the worst glass of Pinot Grigio I’ve ever had… but it was wine and I needed it to forget about the smelly homeless people. (I sound bad, but they keep talking to us because we’re tourists… so they think we’ll give them money for drugs and things. NO CHANCE!)
While sitting in The Cannery, listening to the live music… Bryan, somehow, managed to delete ALL of his photos from his camera. Not one or two….. ALL OF THEM. A foul mood ensued and well, lets just say the neighbours in the next door room of the hotel were probably scared of me that evening. It’s fair to say the two of us had a little bit of a row because B went moody… big time moody… and he accepts that so I can say it. (We’re fine now by the way).

So after things had simmered down a little bit (and after much throwing of pillows to vent anger), we went for dinner in BRICK, which is downstairs on the same block as the hotel. The food was fabulous. Small portions, but VERY tasty. The started that I had (Spicy chicken Wings with a gorgonzola foam) was so hot I nearly cried… while my main course (Rib Eye with an espresso jue and spinache sauce) was gorgeous.
We had a few drinkies after that and headed back upstairs for the rest of the evening.

So yeah, day 4… fabulous, until we fell out, and then fabulous again because we were ok. I still love SF!

Another day at sea… all I need is the Rum and a parrot on my shoulder!

We got up and wondered over to Pier 34. We had to go by bus, and spend 5 minutes talking to a scary drunk homeless person at the bus-stop… which was very nerve wracking.
I picked up the tickets and we got on board the Alcatraz Cruise Ship… which took us over to the Island. Once we arrived at the dock, you could tell we were in an old prison. Bars everywhere… plus the sign on one end of the island that says ‘no closer or you’ll be arrested’, all add up to a rather foreboding feeling.

We wondered up to the top of The Rock and picked up our audio tour in ‘The SHower Room’. Up some stairs and before we knew it we were in the famous cell block itself. Broadway, Time Square, CD Street… all the names for each row of the block. The audio tour was brilliant and led you around the place showing everything you could ever want to know. Siezes, breakouts, death and ‘the hole’… it really is a scary place. How people survived for more than a day up there I do not know. We also saw the wardens offices, staff quaters and the recreation square (giant concrete courtyard).
All of this while the infamous water tower loomed overhead.

After three hours of exploring The Rock, we caught a boat back to the city, and had lunch at The Hard Rock Cafe. I’ve never been before, so it was a new experience for me. I do however think it’s a con!

We left THRC and walked up the steepest street I have ever seen in my life. Lombard Street is incredible, and the thought of hauling a weeks shopping up it would make me want to seel my house straight away.
However, on the other side of the hill is one of the most bizarre sights I have ever seen. ‘The Crookedest Street in the world’ winds its way down the hill using a series of eight hairpin bends to guide traffic down its 45 degree incline. The pictures will be in the gallery, and you really should have a look as words don’t do it justice!

We walked down to North Beach, wandered around Washinton Square (a big version of Soho Square) and then to a lovely street cafe where we drank a bottle of Pinot Grigio and are bruschetta and olives for a few hours while watching policeman drink coffee.

By this time we wre trully shattered… so headed back to the hotel where we fell asleep for another few hours (8). I watched a good little movie though… NOW AND THEN… might have to buy the DVD.

O yeah… Day 3… and the city has grown on me even more!

After waking from our 12 hour sleep, we got ready for day 2 of the holiday. We had reserved a place on a tour bus the day before, which was due to pick us up at 9:20am. Which it did.
We were whicked off to Fishermans Wharf where we paid the rest of our fare and ate ham and cheese bagels (so tasty!!!).

The tour was brilliant. A great introduction to the city. We saw Ghiridelli Square, The Financial District, the amazing City Hall, China Town, Japan Town, Golden Gate Park and the CHinese Tea Gardens (we had 5 minutes to run around the garden before the bus left) and the grand finale, Golden Gate Bridge!

We weren’t the only gay couple on the tour, and affectionately adopted the other couple and renamed them ‘Our Friends’ (you have to say it like a mad stalker). The other couple were not aware of our new name for them, obviously. We did however share a joke together about the bus driver who failed to mention anything about the gigantic rainbow flag we drove under as we went through the gayest area in the world… strange thing those red-necked freaks. After the tour, which also went past a huge Graveyard for American Servicemen we got our tickets for the ‘Red & White Fleet’ bay cruise.

Before boarding, we had lunch, which was a fabulous thing which resembled South African ‘Bunny-Chow’. Clam Chowder in a Sour dough bread bowl washed down with Dr Pepper. It was an amazing thing… and I must thank Hazel at work for suggesting it to me!
It was however a bit wierd eating dinner while a few hundred sea gulls gazed longingly at the food in front of me. Greedy little feckers that they are!

Boarding the Harbour Princess (we missed the Harbour Queen), we were shipped out to the bay and under the Golden Gate Bridge. So for a few minutes, i was out sailing the Pacific Ocean (I’ve never seen it before).
The Bridge truly is an amzing site, and much like the Forth Rail Bridge in Edinburgh… is always being painted…. no surprise there then.

Leaving the Bridge behind us, the boat then sailed around Alcatraz, to tease us a few hours before we would walk around it’s scary shores the following day. It really is a spooky place from the water.

We landed back at pier 43.5 and walked back to Gheridelli Square, where we bought some of the most amazing Ice Cream I have even had the fortune to eat. Cookie Dough and Strawberry Cheesecake flavour in a wafer chocolate cone. All sweetened by the fact the server couldn’t spell Bryan’s name… and keyed it into the system as BRAIN. lol!

Shovelling the ice cream from the gods down our necks, we wandered up to the cable car and hung on for dear life as it transported us to Chine Town where we caught the tail end of the Parade. We managed to see the longest Dragon of the parade and get blasted by fire-crackers.
Loads of pics were taken, which you’ll be able to see when I download them all when I get home! (If I come home).

We walked along Grant Street, and along to North Beach where we found a lovely little Italian restaurant with a guy sitting outside. He was wearing a beret and drinking wne. He looked a little worse for wear… ie: DRUNK!
He did however manage to coax us inside with promises of ‘the best Italian food in the city”. We went in and had a lovely meal again. I had the Blam Linguine n white whine sauce this time… while Bryan tried out an American version of his favourite dish…. Spaghetti Carbonara.

We then left the restaurant (past Picasso who was trying to coax more people inside the place) and walked past the people on Grant Street who were still celebrating. I bought some ‘Pop Pops’… those little explosive things you throw on the ground. I haven’t seen them in years… so took great delight in throwing a whole box of them up in the air. Loads of fun. And $1 for four boxes… they lasted for about an hour!

And so ends day 2 of the holiday. We got back to the flat and fell asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillow. I clearly cannot cope with time zone changes!

After a reasonably good journey over (I watched a couple of movies), we arrived into the city. It was fab flying over San Fancisco, as we could see everything from the plane… including The Golden Gate Bridge and Transamerica Building!

Once in the airport, the wonders of American Queuing came into full force. We must have spent about an hour and a half waiting in various lines.

Leaving the airport, we got onto the BART (BAY AREA RAPID TRANSPORT). It took about half an hour to get into the city, but once we were at Montgommery Street, the fun really began.

I fell in love with San Francisco the second I came out of the underground. What a beautiful place. It really is the place Health & Safety laws forgot about! People hanging on the edge of a small piece of wood as they’re whicked up a 40 degree hill at nine miles an hour while cars rush past them at three times that speed! BRILLIANT … I say anyhoo!

We walked along Sutter Street to the Hotel Carlton where we checked in and zoomed up to the ninth floor where our room looks out over the city skyline with unassuming grace. Gorgeous views and sounds from the city below give a fabulous feel for what we’re going to enjoy over the next few days.

We left the hotel about twenty minutes later and walked down to Union Square where they were setting up for the Chinese New Years Parade. Loads of TV cameras and people running around with loads of cable.

From there we browsed down to the MoMA (Museum of Modern Art) and picked up our City Passes from a very enthusiastic girl who couldn’t wait to give us a map of the place and tell us about her wonderful city.

One of the things I have come to realise about where I come from… London is a stuck up place with unfriendly arseholes and people who would sooner spit on you. San Francisco is the total opposite to that!

Hopped on to the F-Market Train and off to Fisherman’s Wharf for a browse around Pier 39, where the city’s famous residents lounge about on floating barges. The hundreds of Sea Lions clearly enjoying the attention they receive from both the residents and the tourists alike.
From Pier 39, you are treated to some brilliant views of the city above and Alcatraz out in the bay.

I also discovered the wierdest restaurant I have ever seen. A floating island with a lighthouse and 40 ft palm trees. Apparently featured on ‘Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous’. Which of course means that it is out of my price bracket. Fab to see it though.

At this point I was cold and tired and needed food, so we headed for food. We found a fab restaurant with views over the marina where more sea lions swam below us. As we were both rather tired, we decided to order a conservative meal…. how wrong were we. I ordered a Crab Cioppini (spelling error I now)… whcih came with a full set or torture implements to attack my crab with. The Dungeness Crab clearly a favourite here on the west coast.
Bryan went for an easier meal… clam and squid linguine. No shells present in his dish, so he was free to eat it at pace while we both guzzled down the token bottle of Pino Grigio.

Following the meal… we headed back to the hotel on the California Line Cable Car. I’ve seen these hings in countless movies and sitcoms… but nothing can explain to you how much fun they really are! They totally throw caution to the wind… Health and Safety laws a thing of the past! However… considering they replaced horses and carts, it makes sense. The latter of the systems replaced after a heavy rain fall, followed by a cart and two horses sliding down one of the city’s steep streets… not fun!

We then got back to the hotel… and slept for 12 hours!

And so ends day one of the West America trip. I can honestly say that this is my favourite city in America… New York is smelly and dusty (sorry Mark).

FD x

Hey all… just a quick note to let you know I’m living it up in the executive lounges at Heathrow Airport, having people wait on me hand and foot while I wait for them to prep my plane. Ahhhh… luxury!

Hope you don’t miss me too much, but I have my handheld recorder with me, so I’ll record some highlight thingies for you to download when I do my ‘Return From Holiday’ podcast next week!

I’ll also try and post a blog entry every day from the hotel (if they don’t charge the earth) so you can follow my comings and goings!

Also, don’t forget to leave me voicemail! Come on poeple, be one of the first to dial 0208 144 RANT!!!!

Love to you and yours…
FD x

And here we go with the second episode. I’ll take you over the River Thames, along the South Bank to The London Eye, over Westminiter Bridge and to The Houses of Parliament. For a special treat, I’ve recorded Big Ben tolling at seven o’clock!

Hope you enjoy, and please leave comments or a voicemail on 0208 144 RANT!

See you when I get back from San Francisco!
FD x